Learn to Sew: Horse Hair Hem

Master the art of creating a horse hair hem, a couture technique that adds structure and volume to skirts and dresses. Learn when to use it and how to achieve perfect results.

A horse hair hem is a couture technique that adds structure and volume to the hem of a garment using horse hair braid. This technique is particularly popular in formal and bridal wear, where a full, structured hem is desired. The horse hair braid creates a subtle stiffness that helps the hem maintain its shape and creates a beautiful, flowing effect when the garment moves.

When to Use a Horse Hair Hem

Horse hair hems are ideal for:

  • Full skirts and dresses
  • Bridal gowns
  • Formal evening wear
  • Circle skirts
  • A-line skirts
  • Any garment where you want to add structure and volume to the hem

Materials Needed

  • Horse hair braid (available in various widths)
  • Fabric for your garment
  • Thread matching your fabric
  • Sewing machine
  • Scissors
  • Pins
  • Iron and ironing board

Step-by-Step Instructions

  1. Prepare Your Garment
    • Finish sewing your garment, leaving the hem raw
    • Press the hem allowance to the wrong side
    • The hem allowance should be approximately 1.5-2 inches (3.8-5 cm)
  2. Measure and Cut Horse Hair
    • Measure the circumference of your hem
    • Cut the horse hair braid to match this measurement
    • Add 1 inch (2.5 cm) for overlap
  3. Attach Horse Hair
    • Pin the horse hair braid to the right side of your hem allowance
    • Align the raw edge of the horse hair with the raw edge of your hem
  4. Sew the Horse Hair
    • Using a straight stitch, sew the horse hair to the hem allowance - 1/8 inch. If your hem allwance is 1 inch then sew the horse hair braid at 7/8 inch.
    • Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam
  5. Understitch
    • Using a straight stitch, undestitch the seam allowance to the fabric at 1/8 inch from seam.
    • Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam
  6. Fold and Press
    • Fold the horse hair and hem allowance
    • Press the fold carefully, use pressing cloth for delicate fabrics
    • The seam allowance should be enclosed within the hem
  7. Finish the Hem
    • Using a blind hem stitch or slip stitch, hand sew the hem in place
    • Make sure your stitches are invisible from the right side
    • Press the finished hem

Tips for Success

  • Choose the appropriate width of horse hair braid for your project
  • Test the horse hair on a scrap of fabric before using it on your garment
  • Be careful not to stretch the horse hair while sewing
  • Use a pressing cloth when ironing to protect the horse hair
  • Consider using a wider hem allowance (2-3 inches) for better results

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Cutting the horse hair too short
  • Stretching the horse hair while sewing
  • Using too narrow a hem allowance
  • Not properly overlapping the horse hair ends
  • Pressing too aggressively and damaging the horse hair

Variations

You can create different effects by:

  • Using multiple rows of horse hair
  • Combining horse hair with other hemming techniques
  • Adjusting the width of the hem allowance
  • Using different widths of horse hair braid

A horse hair hem adds a professional, couture finish to your garments and creates beautiful movement when walking. With practice, you’ll be able to achieve perfect results that enhance the overall look of your sewing projects.

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